How to Spend 4 Nights in the Bay of Islands

The Bay of Islands is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful regions in New Zealand.

Located at the top of the North Island, The Bay of Islands is home to 144 islands and offers everything from a beautiful coastline and adrenaline-pumping adventures to New Zealand’s first European settlement and Māori history.

I’ve got a soft spot for the Bay of Islands, not just because I spent much of my childhood travelling to Russell and Urupukapuka Island. It’s also where my partner’s family lives; I love trundling up from Auckland on a Friday after work to see them.

Maybe people visiting New Zealand for the first time fly into Auckland and then head south down the country to places like Rotorua, Tongariro National Park and the Waitomo Caves. But I want to show you why you should factor a few extra days into your itinerary for a trip up north.

This blog post will cover the best time to visit the Bay of Islands, how to get there from Auckland, must-dos, and your full itinerary.

When is the best time to visit the Bay of Islands?

The Bay of Islands has a subtropical temperature, which rarely gets as cold as other parts of the country. But don’t be lulled into a false sense of security by other blogs telling you the temperature rarely drops below 16-18℃. It can still get pretty chilly here in the winter.

Summer is the best time to visit the Bay of Islands. Everything here seems to come alive as the sun bathes the coastline in a warm glow and Kiwis travel north for their holidays.

But if you want to escape the crowds (crowd is a loose term), then your best bet is to travel in Spring (September-November) or Autumn (March-May).

How to get to the Bay of Islands

If you’re flying into Auckland, my recommendation is (and always will be) to rent a car. New Zealand’s public transport system is pretty shocking, and you should expect to jump on a train like you can in London or Copenhagen.

The drive to the Bay of Islands from Auckland takes around 3-3.5 hours via State Highway One.

However, at the time of writing (April 2024), the Brynderwyns are still closed after a slip caused by the floods last year. This closure means that you have to drive around through Mangawhai and Waipu. Mangawhai and Waipu are both beautiful and definitely places I’d recommend visiting if you get the chance. But it adds at least another hour to your trip.

*A view from the top of the Mangawhai Cliffs Coastal Walkway*

If you don’t drive, you can take the InterCity Bus or the Kiwi Experience. Both will take you directly into Paihia, the largest (and busiest) town, known as the ‘Gateway to the Bay of Islands.’

There’s also a small airport here that services domestic flights from Auckland. So if you don’t want to drive, this could be a good option. However, the flights are outrageously expensive, and you’ll miss out on epic sights like the Tutakaka Coast.

How long should you spend in the Bay of Islands?

My honest answer is “as long as you can”, and even longer if you have a boat. I could spend lots of time wandering around the towns and islands, and I think the Bay of Islands is the perfect place to come, relax and switch off.

If you’re on a time crunch and heading up to Cape Reinga, you could get a feel for the place in a day, but you’ll feel rushed and only get to scratch the surface.

If it’s your first time visiting, I’d recommend four days. You’ll get to see the best of everything the Bay of Islands offers, leaving you wanting more.

If you’re visiting the Bay of Islands as part of a larger road trip around New Zealand, check out my eight-week New Zealand itinerary!

Day one: Auckland to Paihia and dinner in Russell

The drive from Auckland to Paihia will take approximately three and a half hours, depending on traffic. Start the day early! If you want to break up your drive, I’d recommend stopping in Whangārei to visit the Town Basin for a coffee and walk to Whangārei Falls.

Head north and then stop in Kawakawa to look at the Hundertwasser Toilets!

Arrive in Paihia just before midday, check into your accommodation and get stuck into some lunch. Charlottes Kitchen is my pick; it’s got incredible views over the harbour. However, my mother-in-law is a BOI local and raves about the Tipsy Oyster. I’d take her word over mine!

Once you’ve finished lunch, hop on one of the passenger ferries and head to Russell (about 15 minutes).

Russell (Kororāreka) was New Zealand’s first European settlement. During the 1800s, European and American ships sailed in and out of Russell, turning it into a rowdy mess and calling it the “Hell Hole of The Pacific”.

Nowadays, Russell is much quieter! It is a great little town to waste an afternoon; grab a coffee and wander around the shops, sit on the beach and people-watch, or (if you’re brave) visit Bay of Islands Ink for an impromptu tattoo.

The historic pub, the Duke of Marlborough, is a great spot for a drink. But if you’re heading for dinner, you can’t go past Hōnes Garden.

Hōnes Garden gets its name from Hōne Heke, a highly influential Māori rangatira (chief) of the Ngāpuhi iwi (the largest iwi in New Zealand).

He was the first Māori chief to sign the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840 before being involved in the Northern War.

Today, Hōnes Garden serves one of the best wood-fired pizzas I’ve ever had. I’ve recommended it to so many people and have never had a bad word!

Day two: the Hole in the Rock and New Zealand’s history

There’s no rest for the wicked, and when you’re on holiday with me, there’s no such thing as a sleep-in.

Start your day with a scenic Hole in the Rock Cruise. Although expensive, this is the best way to get up close and personal with the local wildlife—you might even see a dolphin or two!

The cruises depart at 10 am and 2pm, so you can choose which part of today you want to do first. They vary in price (and duration) but are roughly 3-4.5 hours long and cost $150 per person.

Once you’re back on solid ground, visit the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, where Te Tiriti o Waitangi (The Treaty of Waitangi) was signed.

The Treaty of Waitangi is the most important historical document in Aotearoa. It was signed in 1840 by British representatives of the Crown and 500 Maori chiefs.

Sadly, the meaning of the English treaty was subtly different from that of the Māori tiriti, and by the end of the 19th century, most of Aotearoa’s land was no longer in Māori ownership.

Learning about the history of the treaty is one of the most fundamentally important parts of being a New Zealander, as it has shaped the way we live in New Zealand. I highly recommend visiting the Waitangi Treaty Grounds ($60NZD) if you’re travelling.

While there, you’ll tour two museums, see the world’s largest war canoe (waka), and witness the Haka.

To learn more about Te Tiriti o Waitangi, please visit TeAra.

Day three: Adrenaline or Urupukapuka Island

On your last full day in the Bay of Islands, you’ve got two options.

If you’re great with heights and love an adrenaline rush, book a skydive, parasail or flight over the islands.

I’m not a fan of heights (that would be an understatement), so if you’re like me, I’d recommend catching a ferry from Paihia to Urupukapuka Island. I don’t see this recommended often, but it’s such a lovely day out.

Urupukapuka Islands is the largest of all 144 islands and one of the most popular to visit.

Jaw-dropping is the only way to sum up this part of the world: crystal clear water, native bush and white sandy beaches cover the island, making it one of my favourite days out. But I’m biased as I grew up camping on Urupukapuka every year (nostalgic for sure!)

Otehei Bay is the island’s ‘hub, ‘ but even then, it’s so tranquil. The ferry from Paihia to Otehei Bay takes about 40 minutes and costs $60 for adults and $35 for children.

While here, follow one of the many hiking tracks (I recommend the 7.3km Urupukapuka Island Archaeological Walk), swim/laze on the beach, or rent a kayak from Otehei Bay. There’s also a fully licensed cafe and bar—perfect for a drink, bowl of hot chips, or ice cream from their freezer.

If you want to stay longer on Urupukapuka, there are three DOC campsites. Urupukapuka Bay is the largest, but my favourite is Cable Bay. All are bookable via the DOC website.

Day four: Kerikeri, waterfalls and chocolate galore

On your last day in the Bay of Islands, leave Paihia and drive 25 minutes to Kerikeri.

I’ve got a soft spot for Kerikeri. Being the hometown my partner, Mathew, grew up in, I’ve spent many weekends, public holidays and New Year’s events in the Bay of Islands.

When you arrive, go to the historic Stone Store and Kemp House. Built in 1832-1836, the Stone Store is New Zealand’s oldest intact stone building and is exactly what it sounds like.

If you want to visit the museum, there’s a $10 cost. There’s also a small shop on-site in case you need to purchase any last-minute souvenirs and the cost of the museum.

From The Stone Store, take the Kerikeri River Track to Rainbow Falls.

In my opinion, Rainbow Falls is one of the best waterfalls on the North Island. These photos speak for themselves! The 8 km out-and-back track takes about 2 hours to complete. But if you don’t have time for the walk, you can drive to the Rainbow Falls Carpark and walk 5 minutes down to the falls.

By this time, you’ll have worked up an appetite! Takeaway sushi is a huge staple in New Zealand (if you know, you know), and the best spot in town is Sushi Gallery! If sushi isn’t your thing, I’ve heard good things about the Kerikeri Bakehouse! Grab a bite to eat and then head over to Makana Confections.

Excessive? Yes. Must-do in Kerikeri? Also yes!

Although expensive, the chocolate at Makana is out of this world. All the treats are made on-site, and as you walk through their front doors, you’re greeted with a double sample of the daily special.

There are so many delicious things here, but if you can only choose one, you can’t go wrong with the Macadamia Butter Toffee Crunch. You can thank me later.

Day trips from the Bay of Islands

That brings us to the end of your four days in the Bay of Islands. If you’ve got more time and a car to explore, there are so many stunning walks and day trips that you can do from the Bay of Islands.

My favourites are:

The Paihia to Opua Track
Cape Reinga and Te Paki Sand Dunes
Visit Motuarohia (Roberton) Island
Hike Dukes Nose via Wairakau Stream Track (photos below)
Climb up St. Pauls Rock and go for a drink at the Whangaroa Game Fishing Pub
Hike the Cape Brett Track and stay overnight in the hut

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